Stretch garment



Dec., 6, i966 c, K. BACKSTROM STRETCH GARMENT Filed Nov. 24, 1964 INVENTOR. C494 wf @4c/swam BY ,77 l

United States Patent C) 3,289,213 STRETCH GARMENT Carlyle K. Backstrom, Waterville, Maine, assignor to C. F. Hathaway Company, Waterville, Maine, a corporation of Delaware Filed Nov. 24, 1964, Ser. No. 413,502 6 Claims. (Cl. 2-116) This invention relates to an improved shirt or shirt-like garment and more particularly to such a garment formed of stretchable material and including a stretchable collar providing a garment which resembles a finely made conventional garment in all respects but which incorporates a unique ability for stretching particularly in the collar and adjacent portions,

Garment designs are known incorporating stretch material lof one form or another to provide particular parts of the garment such as the collars and cuffs with stretch characteristics. Some of these known garments use a heavier stretch material incorporating elastic in one form or another to provide the stretch portions and in these lgarments the stretch portions have an appearance characteristic of their stretch capability. Thus, Ithese garments do not resemble other conventional garments lacking the stretch -capability. Other garment constructions have been suggested wherein the stretch characteristic has been provided in certain portions such as the garment collars and wherein the stretch is obtained by a specially woven or treated fabric and particularly where portions only of the particular part are given the special stretch characteristic. This special treatment of particular portions only of the material incorporated in the garments does not give the desired result of producing a finished garment having the appearance o-f being formed from a single material and in .addition presents ia difficult and expensive manufacturing operation requiring special treatment for the stretchportions.

The present invention provides a unique construction and method of garment assembly which permits a single stretch material to be used in all principal portions of the garment and particularly the visible portions. A garment is provided which resembles :a conventional shirt cut from a material such as a line broadcloth or another one of the presently used materials formed of synthetic fibers.

Stretch fabrics are commercially available with mixtures of synthetic bers and cotton, for example, and `having the weft threads with elastic properties. Although these materials have elastic properties and have a weight and feel and appearance suitable for garments such as shirts, a simple substitution of this material `for the conventional non-stretch materials has not previously resulted in garments having either a satisfactory appearance or suitable wearing qualities. Thus, prior attempts to utilize the stretch fabrics Ihave resulted in garments, particularly shirts, where the advantages of the stretch characteristics have been more than offset by the poor appearance and poor wearing qualities of the garments.

The present invention provides a novel design or construction for a shirt or shirt-like garment wherein desir- 'able stretch properties have been incorporated in such a way that an extremely comfortable garment results particularly at the collar and yoke which at the same time has the appearance of a carefully made and superior garment .and which is long wearing and easily laundered.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an improved shirt or shirt-like garment with stretch characteristics.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an improved stretch collar construction.

Another object of the present linvention is to provide `an improved elastic collar and yoke combination.

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Another object of the present invention is to provide an improved method of making a stretch collar and collar and yoke combination.

Other and further objects of the invention will be obvious upon and understanding of the illustrative embodiment about to be described or will be indicated in the appended claims, and various advantages not referred to herein will occur to one skilled in the `art upon employment of the .invention in practice.

A preferred embodiment of the invention has been chosen for purposes of illustration and description and is shown in the accompanying drawings, forming a part of the specication, wherein:

PIG. 1 is a front elevational view of a shirt-like garment embodying the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a rear view partial-ly cut away of an improved collar embodying the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a perspective view partially in section of the collar of FIG. 2;

FlG. 4 is a perspective view partially in section taken .along line 4-4 of FIG. 3; and

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary rear elevational View of the collar and yoke portions of a shirt-like garment embodying the present invention.

As indicated above, the present invention is particularly suitable for embodiment in shirt-like garments. A preferred embodiment of the invention will be described in connection with a conventional shirt and .a soft collar suitable for attachment thereto. However, it is clear that the features of the invention as described may be used in other garments of this gener-al type as well as in soft collars similarly used.

The construction and method of the present invention are of particular value for garments where the collar portions including the yoke and band are formed of the same material as the other visible portions of the garment. Stretch fabrics particularly suitable for `garments such as shirts are now being marketed which Ihave the general appearance of conventional broad-cloth and which include 'blends of cotton and man-made fibers. One such fabric, for example, having excellent stretch properties which have proven particularly useful for the manufacture of garments in accordance with the invention comprises a blend of Daeron, cotton, and an additional man-made fiber with resilient properties land used for the weft threads in the manufacture of the cloth. The elastic properties are incorporated in the weft threads by forming them into a tight and almost invisible spiral and the cloth is woven using the spiraled weft threads and so that the completed cloth itself yhas substantial elastic properties when stretched in the direction of the weft threads. Such cloth is commercially available on the market and while not comprising a part of the present invention, the present invention provides a novel and extremely useful means for incorporating the fabric into improved stretch garments as described herein.

FIG. 1 illustrates a shirt 1 in which the various parts are shaped in the known manner. In the shirt 1 made in accordance with the present invention, however, the principal parts and particularly the visible portions including those of the collar are formed of a stretch material having elastic properties in one direction.

The shirt 1 illustrated in FIG. 1 includes front panels 2 and a back panel 3 attached at their upper portions to a yoke 4 and a collar 5. These three panels and the yoke 4 are formed of stretch material and in the preferred `form the panels 2 and 3 and the yoke 4 are cut from the material so that they stretch in a |girthwise direction. The shirt sleeves 6 similarly are cut from the same stretch material and in this case they are cut to stretch lengthwise so that the stretch characteristic is available to accommodate the sleeves as the wearer of the garment may bend his arms and tend to stretch the sleeves in a lengthwise direction.

Stretch characteristics may also be provided in the cuffs 7 of the shirt by cutting them to stretch lengthwise and by using a woven lining cut on the true bias.

As will now be more fully described, the present invention includes a particularly unique construction for the collar which overcomes the problems presented by the use of the same stretch material for the outer plies olf the collar cape 8 and band 9 as `well as for the yoke 4 and the other portions of the shirt. The unique collar construction and its method of assembly to be described provide a collar with an appearance and wearing and laundering qualities in all respects as good or better than those of collars formed of regular broadcloth or synthetic materials and which at the same time incorporates stretch characteristics immeasurably improving the wearers comfort. The collar 5 has cape and band portions formed with outer plies of stretch material. While the cape and band may be cut las `a single piece a preferred `construction of separately cut cape and band will now be described.

The preferred construction of cape 8 is illustrated in FIGS. 2 thru 4. This construction comprises the ltwo outer plies liland 11 cut in the desired collar shape with suitable marginal areas which are folded under to complete the outer seam of the cape 8. A full lining member 12 is also cut in the shape of the outer plies 10 and 11. This lining provides the necessary rigidity for feel and appearance and at the same time cooperates with the outer plies and 11 to provide the desired stretch action which in a typical collar made in accordance with the invention permits the collar to stretch approximately two sizes beyond its normal size. While the lining 12 may be made of the same stretch material as the outer plies 10 and 11, markedly superior results have been obtained by using a non-stretch woven lining and by cutting the lining 12 on a true bias with reference to its length as illustrated in F1G. 2. A lining 12 cut on the true bias cooperates with the outer stretch plies 10 and 11 to preserve the stretch characteristics and at the `same time gives a smooth and slightly stiff feel and appearance for the cape S. 1n addition, it preserves these same characteristics through an indefinite number of launderings and provides a stretch cape 8 which is easily and smoothly ironed without special precautions. A preferred material for the bias cut lining 12 has been found to be Daeron, as for example, a 2.5()` weight denier.

1t is important that the collar 5 including the cape S and band 9 stretch easily throughout the area intermediate the collar tips or ends while the tip portions remain somewhat stiff land iiat for a neat appearance. The cape 8 obtains this result by the insertion of stays 13 formed of thin plastic or other material preferably confined in a pocket sewn between a short stay liner 14 and outer ply 11. The stay liner 14 is conveniently formed of the same material as the full liner 12, however, it is preferably cut on the straight so that it combines with the other cape layers to provide a smooth stiffened collar tip and to assist in the stiifening action of the stay 13. The plies of the cape t3 are fastened together using an elastic thread and best results have been obtained using about 16 stitches to the inch. The closing seam 15 around the free edges of the cape 8 uses elastic thread and passes through double thickness folded edge portions of the outer plies 19 and 11 and the liners 12 and 14.

The band portion 9 of the collar 5 also includes outer plies 16 and 1'7 of the stretch material cut crosswise of the material so that the band will Istretch in a lengthwise direction. The band 9 is lined throughout its entire length with a line-r 18 of the same lining material as the cape 8 which is also cut on a true bias, for the same reasons as noted above, and which results in a particularly effective combination of stretchability with the smoothness and iirmness necessary so that the stretch collar resembles a well-made collar on a conventional shirt.

In assembling the band 9, unexpectantly improve-d results have been obtained where the two outer plies 16 and 17 of the band 9 are cut from stretch material and are made smaller than normal, i.e., preferably about one-half size smaller than the size for which that particular cape 8 is cut. The band liner 18 is cut to the normal size, i.e., the size corresponding to the cape 8 plies being used. When the collar 5 is assembled by joining the cape 3 to the still separate plies of the band 9 by the joining seam 19, the outer plies 16 and 17 of the band 9 are stretched slightly as the seam 19 progresses so that when the seam 19 is completed the two plies 16 and 17 and the lining 18 of the band 9 combine to give a band 9 matching the collar and in which the two plies 16 and 17 of outer stretch material are in a slightly stretched condition. This construction of the band 9 and the method of attaching it to the cape 8 under tension gives an overall collar 5 of about the exact size desired corresponding to the size to which the cape 8 was originally cut. Where band 9 was cut to a normal full size corresponding to that of the cape 8, this assembly operation was found to result in a iinal collar larger than desired by varying and uncontrolled amounts from an action occurred during the assembly and relating to the stretching characteristics of the outer plies 1t) and 11 of the cape 8. yIt has also been found that the assembled collar with the band 9 partially stretched as described provides an improved stretching collar 5 as the partially stretched band acts as a stretch limiting means to control the `stretch of the cape 8. This prevents an unattractive collar appearance such as had been found to result where the visible portion of the collar which is the cape 8 is itself stretched close to its limit. The partially stretched band thus in effect acts as a stretch control means to preserve an attractive collar appearance while permitting an effective stretch suflicient to adjust the collar to a comfortable fit on the wearer. The joining seam 19 which fastens the cape 8 and the band 9 together is preferably positioned very close to the fold lines of the outer plies 16 and 17 of the band 9 and passes through all cape and band plies and liners except the outer portion of band plies 16 and 17. l

A preferred additional feature which is found to further improve the collar appearance is provided by a bar ring sea-m 20 lrun along the band below the joining seam 19 and positioned sufficiently below the seam so that it passes through only the outer plies 16 and 17 and the lining 18 of the band 9. This positioning of the barring seam 20 provides a finishing touch for the collar assembly without interferring with the stretch action which permits the collar to lstretch as much as two sizes when necessary.

FIG. 5 illustrates the collar 5 assembled as described above and attached at the lower edge of the lband 9 to the yoke 4 of a shirt-like garment, The above described operation in cutting the 'band 9 slightly below the normal 4cape size is also found to facilitate the attachment between the yoke 4 and the Ilower edge of the band 9 and to provide a seam giving the desirable amount of stretch witho-ut bunching or wrinkling both during wearing and laundering. The cape 8 and 'band 9 assembly is attached to a double thickness upper portion of the yoke 4 and to the tops of the shirt front panels 2 by elastic thread and by a joining seam passing through the outer and inner plies of the band and the liner and through the double thickness top portion of the yoke 4 and the single thickness top portion of the front panels 2. The attachment is completed by a second seam attaching a folded over portion of the outer ply of the band 9 in the usual manner.

As seen in FIG. 5, the connected portions of the yoke 4 and the band 9 correspond generally to the central portion of the collar 5 having the greatest stretch. The above described cape, band, andyoke construction provides a collar and yoke construction with an easy stretch action for the finished garment, as described above, and capable of accommodating the collar 5 to a neck size as much as two .sizes larger than normal for a particular collar size and also accommodating the yoke and collar combination to the particular conformation of the wearer.

It will be seen that a shirt and collar construction and a related method of manufacture have been described which provide a shirt with all principal portions including the visible portions formed of the same stretch material. This provides a shirt having an excellent appearance identical to that of a well-made conventional shirt but improved in its wearing qualities 'by its stretch action. The new design in (particular has a stretch collar capable of accommodating itself by stretch action to the wearer. The construction provided is of particular advantage in that it permits the use of a single material throughout a shirt or shirt-like garment so that the stretch properties are included in the garment with no apparent change in the garment appearance from that of a conventional garment. This provides a significant improvement in the comfort of the garment without requiring any change in its appearance. It permits a direct substitution of the garment for similar garments now worn and subject to causing discomfort to the wearer due to the initial or subsequent size variations caused by shrinkage or otherwise. The improved construction and assembly method described above are new and novel and also may be readily used by personnel and on machinery now employed in manufacturing more conventional garments. The invention therefore adapts new stretch materials for use in making garments of greater comfort and neat apperance.

As various changes may be made in the form, construction and arrangement of the parts herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention and without sacriicing any of its advantages, it is to be understood that all matter herein is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

A collar comprising the combination of a cape having two outer plies formed of stretch fabric for stretching in a longitudinal direction, a full liner in the cape intermediate the outer plies formed of woven fabric stretchable in a longitudinal direction, a band attached to the cape and having two outer plies formed of the stretch material, said outer plies of said band being of a smaller size in unstretched condition than the size of the cape plies in unstretched condition, said band plies being in partially stretched condition as attached to said cape to correspond to the unstretched cape size, and a liner intermediate the outer plies of the band and formed of woven fabric stretchable in a longitudinal direction.

2. The collar as claimed in claim 1 in which said band liner is formed with a size larger than that of the unstretched size of the band outer plies.

3. A shirt-like garment comprising the combination of body panels and arms formed of stretch fabric, a collar comprising the combination of a cape having two outer plies formed of stretch fabric having stretch character- Y istics in one direction and cut for stretching in a longitudinal direction, a liner in the cape intermediate the outer plies and formed of woven fabric cut on a true bias with respect to its longitudinal direction, additional woven liners positioned intermediate the full liner and one of said cape outer plies at opposite end portions of said cape, a band having outer plies formed longitudinally shorter than said cape plies and made of stretch fabric to stretch longitudially, a liner intermediate the outer plies of the band and for-med of woven fabric cut on a true bias, with respect to its longitudinal direction, elastic thread attaching the top of said yoke to the bottom of said band, and said band plies being attached to said cape in partially stretched condition to correspond to the longitudinal length of said cape.

4. The method of forming a stretch collar of material stretchable in one direction comprising the steps of cutting a pair of outer plies for a cape of a given size from the stretchable material in a direction to stretch longitudinally, cutting a pair of outer plies from the stretchable material for a band in a direction to stretch lengthwise of the band and of a size smaller than normal for the given size for said cape, and attaching the lower edge of the cape .plies to the upper edge of the 'band plies with the band plies partially stretched longitudinally during the attaching so that they assume and retain a size corresponding to that of the cape plies.

5. The `method of forming a stretch collar of material stretchable in one direction comprising the steps of cutting a pair of outer plies for a cape of given size from the stretchable material in a direction to stretch longitudinally of the cape, cutting a liner from woven material on a true bias with reference to the lengthwise direction of the liner, attaching the top and end portions of the cape plies and liner, cutting a pair of outer ,plies from the stretchable kmaterial for a band in a direction to stretch lengthwise of the band and of a size smaller than the given size for said cape, and attaching the lower edge of the cape plies and liner to the upper edge of the band plies with me band plies partially stretched longitudinally during the attaching so that they assume and retain a size corresponding to that of the cape plies.

6. The method of forming a shirt-like stretch garment and collar therefor of material stretchable in one direction comprising the steps of cutting a pair of outer plies for a collar cape of a rgiven size from the s'tretchable material in a direction to stretch longitudinally, cutting a pair of outer plies from the stretchable `material for a collar band in a direction to stretch lengthwise of the band and of a size smaller than normal for the given size for said cape, attaching the lower edge of the cape plies to the upper edge of the 'band plies with the band plies partially stretched longitudinally during the attaching so that they assume and retain a size corresponding `to that of the cape plies, forming body and yoke pieces, and attaching the lower edge of the 'band plies in said partially stretched condition to the tops of the yoke and body pieces.

References Cited bythe Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,766,259 6/1930 Payne 2-131 2,633,816 4/1953 Johnson et al 112-215 2,948,242 8/1960 Shuman 112--235 3,145,132 8/1964 Seltzer 28--76 X 3,170,166 2/1965 Weiss 2-132 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

R. I. SCANLAN, JR., Assistant Examiner. 

3. A SHIRT-LIKE GARMENT COMPRISING THE COMBINATION OF BODY PANELS AND ARMS FORMED OF STRECTCH FABRIC, A COLLAR COMPRISING THE COMBINATION OF A CAPE HAVING TWO OUTER PLIES FORMED OF STRETCH FABRIC HAVING STRETCH CHARACTERISTICS IN ONE DIRECTION AND CUT FOR STRETCHING IN A LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION, A LINER IN THE CAPE INTERMEDIATE THE OUTER PLIES AND FORMED OF WOVEN FABRIC CUT ON A TRUE BIAS WITH RESPECT TO ITS LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION, ADDITIONAL WOVEN LINERS POSITIONED INTERMEDIATE THE FULL LINER AND ONE OF SAID CAPE OUTER PLIES AT OPPOSITE END PORTIONS OF SAID CAPE, A BAND HAVING OUTER PLIES FORMED LONGITUDINALLY SHORTER THAN SAID CAPE PLIES AND MADE OF STRETCH FABRIC TO STRETCH LONGITUDINALLY, A LINER INTERMEDIATE THE OUTER PLIES OF THE BAND FORMED OF WOVEN FABRIC CUT ON A TRUE BIAS WITH RESPECT TO ITS LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION, ELASTIC THREAD ATTACHING THE TOP OF SAID YOKE TO THE BOTTOM OF SAID BAND, AND SAID BAND PLIES BEING ATTACHED TO SAID CAPE IN PARTIALLY STRETCHED CONDITION TO CORRESPOND TO THE LONGITUDINAL LENGTH OF SAID CAPE. 